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It's thumbs up for John Ray, the Scottish designer called to fill the shoes at Gucci's, after Tom Ford's dramatic departure this past spring.
"I loved it," said Kal Ruttenstein, fashion mentor from Bloomingdale's, of the sophisticated collection which cut the edge-but kept the "fetch" of Ford's trademark sexy look.
Expectation filled the air as the fashion crowd streamed into the Diana Hotel in Milan to witness the debut of the man who dared to follow in the footsteps of the golden boy of design.
The lights went out and the runway was enveloped in darkness, except for the spotlight on the male model with long, wavy hair, wearing a 1970's embroidered short white caftan over simple white pants.
He slowly walked the runway. He carried an oversize leather sack over one shoulder, and donned crocodile Gucci loafers with the backs artfully pressed down. Metallic ethnic charms hung from his neck.
The youth's relaxed self-confidence broke the spell. The show could go on, even if minus Tom Ford.
The caftan is the pivotal point of the new Gucci menswear look. By day it can be worn over a pair of jeans or bathing trunks.
At night it is long and luxurious in printed chiffon to be worn over tuxedo pants. The summer 2005 Gucci shirt comes in light transparent fabric, embroidered with life-size butterflies.
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The US Diamond Promotion Service said seven new diamond companies have been added to the Design Gallery hosted on luxury goods website adiamondisforever. com
The DPS introduced the Design Gallery three years ago to provide customers with an online jewelry shopping experience that is enhanced by Internet technology that gives a virtual in-store shopping experience.
The new manufacturer participants are: Andrew Meyer, Oxygen Design, Chad Allison Couture, The Stuckey Company, HQ Woman, Vassi and Leddel International.
Among existing manufacturer participants are Daniel K, Kwiat, Lazare Diamonds, Michael Werdiger, Radiant Cut Diamond and Stardust Diamonds.
Visitors to the Design Your Own Ring feature can design their own engagement ring and/or three-stone diamond ring and are ten refer to participating companies that carry items meeting the design criteria.
Traffic to the Design Gallery, as measured by styles viewed, increased 13 times since the introduction of the Design Your Own Ring feature a year ago.
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Joelle Jean-Fontaine is making a name for herself in the fashion world as a rebel -- literally. The 23-year-old, who has already shown her work twice during New York's Fashion Week, has unveiled a line called Revolte, a French term for rebel, that was inspired by Haiti's bicentennial.
Using only red and black, the Revolte collection pays tribute to its designer's native Haiti. This year marks the 200th anniversary of the slave revolt that gave the island nation independence from French rule. But the country has become better known for the volcano of unrest that seems to erupt there periodically -- as when President Jean-Bertrand Aristide was ousted four months ago -- than for its creative energy.
Jean-Fontaine, who was born during the regime of Jean-Claude "Baby Doc" Duvalier, sees Revolte as a way to portray her home country in a more positive light by using it as a source of inspiration.
"It was very important to me to show the Haitian people, especially Haitian women, as very strong, very passionate, very sensual," she said.
Before she created her niche in the fashion world, the young designer carved out a studio in a small corner of the Mattapan home she shares with her husband and 3-year-old son.
Here, Jean-Fontaine creates her signature funky, eye-catching collections. The walls are papered with ads and mag
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Mantero, a company operating in the field of silk and luxury goods, has opened a concept store in Como, "La Tessitura". A space designed by the architect Giancarlo Conti, offering a line of textile projects created by a team of young talents from design schools all over the world. To support this project, the Movie Design Lab of the INDACO Dept of the Milan Polytechnic, with the collaboration of Consorzio POLI.design, has conducted research for an audio-video installation now featured in the spaces of the concept store. This collaboration, was directed by Marisa Galbiati and Francesco Galli.
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The design director of Tiffany & Co. and author of the new book Tiffany in Fashion: A Study of American Fashion and Fashion Photography, combed through every issue of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar from 1933 to today doing research, and his hard work shows.
Tiffany in Fashion is a coffee-table book featuring 250 gorgeous images by the world's best fashion photographers, covering the past 70 years of fashion and accessories. The book also includes essays by designer James Galanos and fashion icon Eleanor Lambert, who played a large part in the research of the book before she died at 100 years old last year.
We caught up with Loring, who was in town promoting the book Wednesday, during a phone interview last week.
Loring says besides going through hundreds of issues of magazines, it was quite an adventure tracking down photographs that were in good condition from film and other media.
"When much of this material was printed for the first time, the printing was so bad you couldn't tell what was really going on," Loring says. "So, this is the first time people have been able to see some of these photographs."
In writing this book, Loring says he and Lambert were tyring to tell the story of American fashion.
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