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From a bygone era of Victorian charm, to tantalising geometric cut-outs and the riding chic of jackets and breeches, Milan fashion shows zapped the style codes.
Next winter heralds romantic dresses at Gianfranco Ferre who used crumpled silk and gilt buttons to create a 2006-07 ready-to-wear collection with an air of costume drama about it.
Photographs of golden balconies were projected on to the walls to create the illusion of being inside a theatre whose heroines appeared when the crimson curtain pulled back.
High-waisted long skirts, puffed white chiffon blouses with floppy neckties and ruffs skimming the chin harked back to turn-of-the-century elegance, as did lines of little buttons on the forearm.
Bejewelled buttons sparkled on blouses but also on black skirts in satin or velvet, a long coat or breeches. Fur was added to collars for an overall look that did not stray from the winter faithfuls of black, brown, midnight blue, white or nuances of cream.
Donatella Versace, on the other hand, championed colour, mixing geometric cut-outs and graphic features with sophisticated draping for curve-hugging clothes.
The result? A collection without reference to any particular time, place or person.
The Versace 'V' traced the pockets of a short coat, or marked the decollete of black dresses.
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Gucci offered a rock 'n' roll winter of flamboyant luxury, while the future looks rosy at Emporio Armani with a joyful wardrobe of day and evening-wear.
Frida Giannini gave a nod to David Bowie for her second collection for Gucci with glitter, sequins, gold lame, silver studs, tight pants or alternatively trousers so wide they hid the shoes.
Dresses were either extremely long or ultra-short but good for showing off the colourful tights or black hose with gold sparkle.
A wide studded belt emphasised the waist on a micro-mini red dress, while a quietly glittered, fur tank-top warmed up another short golden dress.
A small crocodile blouson in violet teamed up with black pants tucked into boots.
Emerald green and amethyst only added to the richness of Giorgio Armani's dressy skirts, jackets and coats for his Emporio line that was already overflowing in charming detail.
He elegantly puffed skirts to create gentle volume that was modern and not too obvious but contrasted nicely with cinched waists or mirrored little puff shoulders.
Or he sculpted skirts into taffeta tulips, and built them up to be even dressier for evenings with layers draped from the hip. For next winter, subtly-shaped Bermuda shorts are a must.
Big furry berets or taller hats were both snug and fun.
Fanning that edged part of a jacket
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Swatch Alternative Fashion Week is the event for new designers to be discovered.
Hard on the heels of New York, Paris and Milan, London's Swatch Alternative Fashion Week brings out the most original and creative collections.
Swatch is delighted to announce its sponsorship and has created two major awards; The Individual Designer Award for innovative use of fabrics and design and The College Award for the most innovative collection on the theme of TIME.
Visitors to the event will have the opportunity to buy vintage Swatch watches, not available anywhere else in the UK.
In 2006 over sixty young designers will be selected to show their work.
Hundreds of applications are received from recent fashion and textile graduates, independent designers aiming to establish their label and designers from the world of circus, theatre, carnival and club.
We welcome applications from all over the country and abroad - everything from the sublime to the sensational.
Twelve different designers will show each day.
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Swatch Alternative Fashion Week
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For its 7th edition, Le SHOWROOM, the trade fair organized by Hortensia de Hutten, will be presenting 60 international collections of ready-to-wear and accessories at the Espace Richelieu.
Le SHOWROOM doesn't take a "superficial" approach.
Rather, it promotes and commercializes an approach that is about "being in the field", instilling trust, being available, being open to exchange and carrying out efficient groundwork that responds as much to the demands of the designers as it does to the demands of the buyers.
So many designer universes that represent our part of the indispensable dream.
This season, Le SHOWROOM opens one day earlier than the other fairs, on March 1rst, to allow the buyers who are already in Paris to come and discover the collections with more time.
With the magic, playful and felted world of Hut Up.
With the delicious clothing of Colomba Leddi (mixes, colors and half-tones, hand embroidered).
With the ingenious wearable pieces from anomalies : a kaleidoscope of yarns, colors and buttons, wool and flannel; accessories to play with and toys to wear.
With Mision Misericordia, whose sports uniforms are made in Peru's poorest areas, with respect for human rights and the environment.
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Le SHOWROOM Winter 2006/2007
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Fashion in Colors explores color as a design element through 300 years of Western clothing, examining the changing perceptions and meanings of color through various eras.
More than 60 costumes are on display, ranging from eighteenth-century court gowns to couture creations by twentieth-century masters such as Balenciaga, Vionnet, Chanel, and Watanabe.
On view: December 9, 2005 – March 26, 2006.
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design directory
Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum > Design Museums
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