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Black is Back for London Fashion WeekGiles Deacon delivered an ensemble of impeccable tailoring, bejewelled and feathered, to London Fashion Week, raising the profile of a somewhat flat five-day run of catwalks with supermodel presence and sober glamour.
Eva Herzigova and another blonde amazon opened the show, one of the most awaited events of the week, in sober but elegant black blazers that presaged a focus on the luxurious suit.
Velvet patterns -- thick chains or diagonal slices -- criss-crossed the matte black background of jackets, skirts and coats, with big Swarovski crystals used to decorate hems and waistbands, or ostrich feathers added on as fringe.
Giles lightened the austerity of all that black with forest green and ochre velvet, in flowing caftan dresses, and shiny topaz and bronze metal discs, sewn together to make the ultimate shimmering party dress.
His autumn/winter 2005-6 clothes, like his much acclaimed spring/summer show before it, still draw inspiration from the 1970s, with sleeveless patterned chiffon gowns, empire-waisted and drawn in with a velvet band, and body-hugging crocheted dresses that gave even slim Herzigova a slinky curve.
Like Jasper Conran, whose steady but unsurprising collections have built him a fan base and successful business in London, Giles indulged more in cosmopolitan ladylike glamour than many
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February 17, 2005 | Viewed 24,845 time(s)
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