The Hidden History of American Fashion offers the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion.
Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs, and distribution methods. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world.
Charting the movements, developments, and ideas that transformed the way women dress, this book gives a unique perspective on the history of twentieth-century fashion. From the invention of the bias cut and the stiletto heel to the designers who changed the way we think about clothes, the book is entertaining, intelligent, and a visual feast.
The Dress Detective is the first practical guide to analyzing fashion objects, clearly demonstrating how their close analysis can enhance and enrich interdisciplinary research. This accessible book provides readers with the tools to uncover the hidden stories in garments, setting out a carefully developed research methodology specific to dress, and providing easy-to-use checklists that guide the reader through the process.
'Sustainability and Social Change in Fashion' explains concepts, applications, legal and regulatory issues, and tools available to professionals throughout the fashion industry. Call to Action Activities, case studies, Conversations with industry professionals, and Company Highlights in every chapter will help you practice sustainability in your career.
Long since regarded as an inessential object that simply adds to the beauty, convenience or effectiveness of an outfit, accessories are now considered key items in a fashion collection and as stand-alone pieces worthy of our undivided attention. Basics Fashion Design 09: Designing Accessories is filled with important information that any designer will need to know, examining four key items from concept to production: the bag, footwear, jewellery and millinery. The key accessories are dissected to clearly display the core components, giving a clear view of how each connects.
Fashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time.
Organized chronologically, Chanel: The Karl Lagerfeld Campaigns includes a carefully curated selection of photographs that showcase hundreds of spectacular clothes worn by the top fashion models and personalities of each era. Women including Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Kate Moss are photographed in glamorous locations such as Coco Chanel's Paris apartment, the French Riviera, and Rodeo Drive. Filled with more than 600 photographs, plus an essay by fashion writer Patrick Mauriès, the book offers an unrivaled overview of the house of Chanel as seen through the eyes-and lens-of Karl Lagerfeld himself.
Despite, or perhaps because of, the privations of war, the 1940s was one of the greatest decades for fashion in Britain. The mantra of 'make-do and mend' spawned a decade of creativity, and a generation who would not let austerity prevent them from looking good. Transatlantic, and military influences were everywhere, and after the war was over Dior's 'New Look' set the scene for the fashions of the prosperous 1950s. Fashion in the 1940s is a profusely illustrated and fascinating guide to the changing styles in fashion, make-up, suits and styles through the war years and over the years of austerity from the legacies of the 1930s through make-do-and-mend and knitted wonders to Demob suits, and the "New Look." Interest in wartime fashion has never been higher, with thousands of people regularly dressing in 1940s styles, or using the styles of the decade as an influence for a modern wardrobe. Illustrated with a wealth of images not seen since the war years, this is the perfect introduction for anyone interested in remembering or recreating, the style of the decade.
Art and fashion have long gone hand in hand, but it was during the modernist period that fashion first gained equal value to - and took on the same aesthetic ideals as - painting, film, photography, dance, and literature. Combining high and low art forms, modernism turned fashion designers into artists and vice versa. Bringing together internationally renowned scholars across a range of disciplines, this vibrant volume explores the history and significance of the relationship between modernism and fashion and examines how the intimate connection between these fields remains evident today, with contemporary designers relating their work to art and artists problematizing fashion in their works.
Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry is the first concise and accessible overview of fashion theories for students on any fashion course. Providing an easy understanding of the core concepts, from scarcity to conformity, this book offers clear, practical examples and accessible case studies, making complex theory easy to digest.
Comfortable yet on-trend, oversize fashion is a stylist's favorite look. These extra-large sweaters knit up fast with bulky yarns and balance beautifully with skinny jeans or leggings. Explore easy knit/purl texture, give cables a try, or knit a ribbed cardigan. All of these sweaters share a comfy, at-home-anywhere aesthetic that will make them versatile and favorite pieces.
Sustainability and Social Change in Fashion explains concepts, applications, legal and regulatory issues, and tools available to professionals throughout the fashion industry. Call to Action Activities, case studies, Conversations with industry professionals, and Company Highlights in every chapter will help you practice sustainability in your career.
New York Fashion Week has served many purposes throughout its long history, but it has always remained at the center of the American fashion world. During World War II, Fashion Week challenged the dominance of French couture; in the 1970s and 1980s, it was a showcase for American sportswear stars who became household names; in the 2000s, it was the stage for celebrity designers using the runway as a vehicle for entertainment; and now, it is the place to see and be seen by contemporary reality TV and social media stars. Now, this illustrious history is told as it's never been told before, in a book packed with designer interviews, backstage ephemera, and exclusive photographs culled from all 75 years of New York Fashion Week. Part historical overview, part scrapbook, and part fashion-industry field guide, American Runway will bring to life the people, places, and over-the-top runway productions of New York Fashion Week.
Fashion Forward demystifies the exciting career of a fashion forecaster and fosters skills that will benefit any design professional. The book begins with an overview of fashion forecasting theories and concepts and then leads readers through a step-by-step guide to creating and presenting a forecast. The authors reveal the inner workings of global fashion forecasting through real-world examples and interviews with both influential forecasters and the designers who rely upon them.
Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers is a guide to showing your designs, skill sets, and creativity, to get you that job. In this Fourth Edition, the book shows examples of croquis books, spec and flat drawings, and visual research presentations from both fashion professionals and students.
The first book dedicated to the career and creations of esteemed fashion designer Norman Norell, the man hailed as the 'Dean of American Fashion' by the New York Times. Norell showed the world that American design could climb to great heights by producing collection after collection that was both elegant and practical. He singlehandedly shaped the character of the ready-to-wear industry and served as a role model to younger generations of American designers.
Established in 1952 in Naples - where its headquarters are still located, Mario Valentino is a leading brand in the leather sector and a legendary manufacturer of shoes, accessories and clothing. In the early 1970s, following successes at fashion shows in Rome and in the US, Mario's business flourished and he soon expanded into prêt-à-porter, where artisanal tanning skills meet the rules of haute couture and where leather takes on unexpected forms. From the late 1960s through the 1980s, top models like Verushka and Ashley Richardson contributed to the brand's success, while photographers like Robert Mapplethorpe, Richard Avedon, Mimmo Jodice, Helmut Newton and many others helped define the designs of Mario Valentino as a true art form. Drawing on archival documents, this publication recreates the extraordinary adventure of Valentino, recognizing the debt of this "enlightened Neapolitan" to his native land and outlining that "yet unwritten part" he played in the fame of "Made in Italy" businesses.
Exploring 35 years of creative output, this richly illustrated book offers an unprecedented look into Giorgio Armani's unique aesthetic, corporate and cultural strategies. Written in a lively and accessible style, the book includes thoughtful and provocative chapters exploring: the evolution of the man's suit; boutique culture in a global reality; the influence of Orientalism; the designer's ambivalent relationship with the fashion press; the business of vertical branding; the use of the evening dress to construct the house's history; power dressing for the modern woman; the relationship between textiles, film and the contours of masculinity; the continued dialogue with early twentieth-century aesthetics; as well as the spaces and bodies of the theatre of fashion.
Pattern cutting, or pattern making, is an essential yet complex skill for every fashion designer to master. Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion demystifies the pattern cutting process and clearly demonstrates pattern fundamentals, enabling you to construct in both 2D and 3D, and quickly get to grips with basic blocks, shape, sleeves, collars, trousers, pockets and finishes.
From haute couture to ready-to-wear―parkas, puffer coats, and backpacks, as well as garments made of neoprene and Mylar are everywhere. But the roots of these ubiquitous items of dress and cutting-edge textiles are rarely acknowledged or understood. Inspired by the so-called "heroic era" of polar navigation (1890-1922), extreme mountain climbing, deep sea exploration, and journeys to outer space, Expedition explores how garments made for the most inhospitable environments on earth and beyond have inspired more than sixty years of fantastical, otherworldly fashions.
Whether handmade or industrially-produced, deconstructive or avant-garde, knitwear has now become a staple collection piece every season and its resurgence as a key fashion item has rekindled a trend and a keen interest in this once very traditional craft. Developments in modern techniques, the revival of traditional craft skills and a new appreciation of couture craftsmanship have put knitwear back into the fashion spotlight. Knitwear Fashion Design aims to help fashion students to understand the basic design elements in knitwear and learn how illustrate them.
Fashion Ethics is the first book to provide a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry: from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry.
The History of Sportswear is the definitive guide to sportswear and leisurewear fashion over the past century. When chic yet casual clothing initially worn only for sports events was adapted by designers such as Chanel, Claire McCardell, Vionnet and Patou it soon became an enormous and enduring influence on women's fashion. A staple of the post-war wardrobe, sportswear remains at the forefront of trends across the globe and its effortlessly modern line and form continue to be a huge inspiration to 21st century designers from Karl Lagerfeld to Alexander Wang. Chronologically mapping the rise of sportswear over the past century through the designers that made the style mainstream, author and luxury fashion designer Christian Blanken gives fascinating insights into the development of sporting style.
Beyond Design: The Synergy of Apparel Product Development takes students step-by-step through the decision-making involved in the pre-production processes of apparel product development - planning, forecasting, fabricating, line development, technical design, pricing, sourcing, and distribution. It demonstrates how these processes must be coordinated to get the right product to market, when consumers want it, and at a price they are willing to pay.
A design tutorial by Manuela Brambatti, Versace's chief design illustrator, the book is an idea of couturier Flavio Marconi who, impressed by her drawing style, her unique taste designing fashion collections and the precision with which she captures the flow of fabric over the body, convinced her to put it into print. Here Brambatti reveals her fresh and innovative style, not better than others, as she writes, but orginal and distinctive for Versace's workshop, halfway between fashion sketching and illustration.
Christian Dior's first collection in 1947 heralded the birth of a new fashion silhouette for women. Here, seventy of the most memorable looks created by Christian Dior and his successors ― Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Maria Grazia Chiuri ― have been specially selected and photographed in intimate detail. This essential volume also features those designs in original sketches, runway shots, and fashion shoots by the world's greatest fashion photographers, including Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, William Klein, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Paolo Roversi, and Nick Knight.
Pleating: Fundamentals for Fashion Design, featuring more than 300 photos of pleated high-fashion creations and practical diagrams to follow, offers the basics needed to understand and use fabric pleating successfully. A foreword by Jack Sauma, founder of Mood Designer Fabrics, reminds us of how essential pleating is to the design world. Throughout, step by step explanations show you how, by understanding the types of pleats and their requirements in terms of fabrics, grain, bias, and other factors, you can improve your designs' creation process, budget planning, and "wow" factor.
The Fashion Design Detail Book is packed with quick fashion sketches for design development, reference and inspiration. Over 600 garment details are included, illustrated and labeled by detail name and category.
Fashion have always also been reflections of issues in society. Migration is a more topical, volatile, and controversial issue right now than it has been in a long time. This book, the result of a research project at the AMD Academy of Fashion and Design in Berlin, portrays and visualizes the enormous positive influence migration has had on contemporary fashion in Germany and around the world. Fashion with a migrant background enriches the culture and opens novel perspectives.