New York Fashion Week has served many purposes throughout its long history, but it has always remained at the center of the American fashion world. During World War II, Fashion Week challenged the dominance of French couture; in the 1970s and 1980s, it was a showcase for American sportswear stars who became household names; in the 2000s, it was the stage for celebrity designers using the runway as a vehicle for entertainment; and now, it is the place to see and be seen by contemporary reality TV and social media stars. Now, this illustrious history is told as it's never been told before, in a book packed with designer interviews, backstage ephemera, and exclusive photographs culled from all 75 years of New York Fashion Week. Part historical overview, part scrapbook, and part fashion-industry field guide, American Runway will bring to life the people, places, and over-the-top runway productions of New York Fashion Week.
Fashion Forward demystifies the exciting career of a fashion forecaster and fosters skills that will benefit any design professional. The book begins with an overview of fashion forecasting theories and concepts and then leads readers through a step-by-step guide to creating and presenting a forecast. The authors reveal the inner workings of global fashion forecasting through real-world examples and interviews with both influential forecasters and the designers who rely upon them.
Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers is a guide to showing your designs, skill sets, and creativity, to get you that job. In this Fourth Edition, the book shows examples of croquis books, spec and flat drawings, and visual research presentations from both fashion professionals and students.
The first book dedicated to the career and creations of esteemed fashion designer Norman Norell, the man hailed as the 'Dean of American Fashion' by the New York Times. Norell showed the world that American design could climb to great heights by producing collection after collection that was both elegant and practical. He singlehandedly shaped the character of the ready-to-wear industry and served as a role model to younger generations of American designers.
Established in 1952 in Naples - where its headquarters are still located, Mario Valentino is a leading brand in the leather sector and a legendary manufacturer of shoes, accessories and clothing. In the early 1970s, following successes at fashion shows in Rome and in the US, Mario's business flourished and he soon expanded into prêt-à-porter, where artisanal tanning skills meet the rules of haute couture and where leather takes on unexpected forms. From the late 1960s through the 1980s, top models like Verushka and Ashley Richardson contributed to the brand's success, while photographers like Robert Mapplethorpe, Richard Avedon, Mimmo Jodice, Helmut Newton and many others helped define the designs of Mario Valentino as a true art form. Drawing on archival documents, this publication recreates the extraordinary adventure of Valentino, recognizing the debt of this "enlightened Neapolitan" to his native land and outlining that "yet unwritten part" he played in the fame of "Made in Italy" businesses.
Exploring 35 years of creative output, this richly illustrated book offers an unprecedented look into Giorgio Armani's unique aesthetic, corporate and cultural strategies. Written in a lively and accessible style, the book includes thoughtful and provocative chapters exploring: the evolution of the man's suit; boutique culture in a global reality; the influence of Orientalism; the designer's ambivalent relationship with the fashion press; the business of vertical branding; the use of the evening dress to construct the house's history; power dressing for the modern woman; the relationship between textiles, film and the contours of masculinity; the continued dialogue with early twentieth-century aesthetics; as well as the spaces and bodies of the theatre of fashion.
Pattern cutting, or pattern making, is an essential yet complex skill for every fashion designer to master. Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion demystifies the pattern cutting process and clearly demonstrates pattern fundamentals, enabling you to construct in both 2D and 3D, and quickly get to grips with basic blocks, shape, sleeves, collars, trousers, pockets and finishes.
From haute couture to ready-to-wear―parkas, puffer coats, and backpacks, as well as garments made of neoprene and Mylar are everywhere. But the roots of these ubiquitous items of dress and cutting-edge textiles are rarely acknowledged or understood. Inspired by the so-called "heroic era" of polar navigation (1890-1922), extreme mountain climbing, deep sea exploration, and journeys to outer space, Expedition explores how garments made for the most inhospitable environments on earth and beyond have inspired more than sixty years of fantastical, otherworldly fashions.
Whether handmade or industrially-produced, deconstructive or avant-garde, knitwear has now become a staple collection piece every season and its resurgence as a key fashion item has rekindled a trend and a keen interest in this once very traditional craft. Developments in modern techniques, the revival of traditional craft skills and a new appreciation of couture craftsmanship have put knitwear back into the fashion spotlight. Knitwear Fashion Design aims to help fashion students to understand the basic design elements in knitwear and learn how illustrate them.
Fashion Ethics is the first book to provide a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry: from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry.
The History of Sportswear is the definitive guide to sportswear and leisurewear fashion over the past century. When chic yet casual clothing initially worn only for sports events was adapted by designers such as Chanel, Claire McCardell, Vionnet and Patou it soon became an enormous and enduring influence on women's fashion. A staple of the post-war wardrobe, sportswear remains at the forefront of trends across the globe and its effortlessly modern line and form continue to be a huge inspiration to 21st century designers from Karl Lagerfeld to Alexander Wang. Chronologically mapping the rise of sportswear over the past century through the designers that made the style mainstream, author and luxury fashion designer Christian Blanken gives fascinating insights into the development of sporting style.
Beyond Design: The Synergy of Apparel Product Development takes students step-by-step through the decision-making involved in the pre-production processes of apparel product development - planning, forecasting, fabricating, line development, technical design, pricing, sourcing, and distribution. It demonstrates how these processes must be coordinated to get the right product to market, when consumers want it, and at a price they are willing to pay.
A design tutorial by Manuela Brambatti, Versace's chief design illustrator, the book is an idea of couturier Flavio Marconi who, impressed by her drawing style, her unique taste designing fashion collections and the precision with which she captures the flow of fabric over the body, convinced her to put it into print. Here Brambatti reveals her fresh and innovative style, not better than others, as she writes, but orginal and distinctive for Versace's workshop, halfway between fashion sketching and illustration.
Christian Dior's first collection in 1947 heralded the birth of a new fashion silhouette for women. Here, seventy of the most memorable looks created by Christian Dior and his successors ― Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Maria Grazia Chiuri ― have been specially selected and photographed in intimate detail. This essential volume also features those designs in original sketches, runway shots, and fashion shoots by the world's greatest fashion photographers, including Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, William Klein, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Paolo Roversi, and Nick Knight.
Pleating: Fundamentals for Fashion Design, featuring more than 300 photos of pleated high-fashion creations and practical diagrams to follow, offers the basics needed to understand and use fabric pleating successfully. A foreword by Jack Sauma, founder of Mood Designer Fabrics, reminds us of how essential pleating is to the design world. Throughout, step by step explanations show you how, by understanding the types of pleats and their requirements in terms of fabrics, grain, bias, and other factors, you can improve your designs' creation process, budget planning, and "wow" factor.
The Fashion Design Detail Book is packed with quick fashion sketches for design development, reference and inspiration. Over 600 garment details are included, illustrated and labeled by detail name and category.
Fashion have always also been reflections of issues in society. Migration is a more topical, volatile, and controversial issue right now than it has been in a long time. This book, the result of a research project at the AMD Academy of Fashion and Design in Berlin, portrays and visualizes the enormous positive influence migration has had on contemporary fashion in Germany and around the world. Fashion with a migrant background enriches the culture and opens novel perspectives.
Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body conveys the centrality of costume to live performance. Finding associations between contemporary practices and historical manifestations, costume is explored in six thematic chapters, examining the transformative ritual of costuming; choruses as reflective of society; the grotesque, transgressive costume; the female sublime as emancipation; costume as sculptural art in motion; and the here-and-now as history.
Dior by Yves Saint Laurent encompasses Yves Saint Laurent's most iconic haute couture creations for the renowned house, from the Trapeze silhouette of his debut Spring-Summer 1958 collection to the beatnik inspiration for Fall-Winter 1960. Featuring a wealth of stunning photographs by Laziz Hamani and expressive text by Saint Laurent biographer Laurence Benaïm, this monumental volume provides profound insight into Saint Laurent's inspirations, influences, and vision for the evolution of the house of Dior.
From the first animal skin body coverings, to today's high fashion collections, fashion has held an important role in the evolution of mankind. The fashion industry has, and continues to make, major contributions to our cultural and social environment. This second edition of Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry contains a chronology, an introduction, appendixes, and an extensive bibliography. The dictionary section has over 1,400 cross-referenced entries on designers, models, couture houses, significant articles of apparel and fabrics, trade unions, and the international trade organizations.
Cristóbal Balenciaga remains one of the most revered and enigmatic of fashion designers. This book features breathtaking illustrations, revealing why he is renowned for exceptional tailoring, sculptural shapes, deft manipulation of textiles, and a dramatic use of color. His glamorous clientele included Grace Kelly, Jackie Kennedy, Pauline de Rothschild, Ava Gardner, and Marlene Dietrich; many of his clients dressed almost exclusively in his designs, which were celebrated for being both easy to wear and tailored to flatter any figure. Balenciaga's Craft: Outside In offers a thorough examination of the Spanish-born couturier's designs and business practice, and places him firmly in the context of the time, looking at the country in which he learned his trade and the international fashion scene in which he matured and triumphed.
Dark Fashion World showcases nearly 20 emerging fashion designers from around the world who push the boundaries of modern fashion, leading fashion and design fans and professionals into a dark world of visual delight. The projects within strive to evoke a sense of the traditional Victorian Gothic as well as new, more contemporary darknesses. Leather, vinyl and metal all have their place, but the pieces featured also turn to satin, floral accessories and fur in surprising ways that draw viewers out of the light and into a space defined by uncanny beauty. Designers even utilize bright colors and bold patterns for unsettling effects that can inspire dread as well as delight. With an eye for the bizarre and a deep affection for an aesthetic both romantic and sinister, Dark Fashion World reveals the essence and secrets of the diverse culture of dark fashion couture.
Vintage Fashion and Couture: From Poiret to McQueen tells the story of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their designs. It explores designers' careers through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, and explains what makes each item so desirable and why it was so important for the fashion world. It describes the designers' role among their contemporaries, and their influence on the world of fashion.
The story of Anna Molinari's beloved and successful fashion house, as told through a kaleidoscope of stunning images by famed photographers. Blumarine has become synonymous with fashion created for the modern woman, characterized by a sensual femininity and timeless romanticism, with a vibrant edge. Anna Molinari, known as "the queen of roses" because of her love for the flower, is the designer and creative force behind the label, which has since evolved into a range of successful lines, including Miss Blumarine, Blugirl, and Blumarine Home. With remarkable photos by legendary photographers, such as Helmut Newton, Tim Walker, Albert Watson, and Craig McDean, the story of Blumarine is told visually through the brilliant images conceived by fashion editors like Grace Coddington and Manuela Pavesi.
Contemporary fashion in the Netherlands is successful globally and shows a rich, paradoxical diversity. Delft Blue to Denim Blue maps the landscape of Dutch fashion in all its rich variety and complexity. Luxuriously illustrated in colour and black & white, The book uncovers the cultural heritage of Dutch fashion and explores the individual designers and brands, including romantic designer Jan Taminiau who creates spectacular gala gowns for Queen Maxima, Iris Van Herpen, Kichael Van Der Ham and conceptual designer duo Viktor&Rolf, as well as the many popular brands, such as G-Star jeans, Mexx, Supertrash, CoraKemperman, Vanilla, Sjaak Hullekes, and the affordable retailer, C&A.
Construction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes passion and great skill to turn a two-dimensional drawing into a successful garment. Construction for Fashion Design guides readers through the process, teaching the theory, practical skills and techniques that they need to succeed. It leads readers through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping on the mannequin to sewing techniques and haberdashery.
Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Dress is an authoritative visual guide to women's fashion across five centuries.
From Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, his 1992 graduate collection, to Plato's Atlantis, the last show before his death in 2010, Lee Alexander McQueen was as celebrated for the exquisite tailoring, meticulous craftsmanship, and stunning originality of his designs as he was notorious for his theatrical - and often controversial - runway shows. Illustrated throughout with stunning photography and liberally sprinkled with quotations from McQueen and those who knew him best, Alexander McQueen: Evolution is the story of the designer's thirty-five runway shows and the genius behind them.
Throughout their illustrious 25-year career, Viktor&Rolf have carved a contradictory identity that pushes the boundaries between art and fashion, often contrasting romance and violence, exuberance and control, classicism and rebellion. Exploring their concept of "wearable art," Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists features some of the Dutch design duo's most show-stopping and innovative works, drawn from the Viktor&Rolf archive as well as museum collections in the Netherlands. It includes an exclusive recent interview with the designers, a fascinating glossary of Viktor & Rolf and an essay by the Geneva-based academic Luca Marchetti, whose analysis reveals Viktor & Rolf's complex relationship with haute couture and its history.
This richly illustrated book presents 80 exceptional garments from the Rijksmuseum's substantial costume collection, the oldest in the Netherlands. From the clothes of the Frisian branch of the Orange dynasty in the Dutch Golden Age, through dresses of colorful French silk and glittering velvet men's suits from the 18th century to the classic empire of the fin de siècle to 20th-century haute couture by Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. This selection highlights the international character of Dutch fashion throughout the centuries, while simultaneously illustrating the developments that took place within the country itself. Experts in the field of costume and fashion tell the stories of the costumes and the people that wore them.